The performance of a professional hair scissor is ultimately set by its steel. Edge sharpness, edge retention, corrosion resistance, and how the blade responds to sharpening — all of it depends on what grade of steel the scissor is made from.
Common steels in professional hair scissors
Four steels appear most often in professional-grade hair scissors.
VG-10
VG-10 is a premium stainless steel developed by Takefu Special Steel (now part of Hitachi Metals). It was originally designed for high-end knives and cutlery. The alloy includes vanadium, cobalt, and molybdenum, with a very fine grain structure that gives a sharp edge and a clean cut feel.
- HRC hardness: 60–62
- Characteristics: very sharp edges, excellent edge retention, adequate corrosion resistance
- Used in: high-end professional hair scissors, premium kitchen knives
ATS-314
ATS-314 is a powder-metallurgy stainless steel developed by Aichi Steel Corporation. It's highly regarded in the Japanese professional-scissor market for its exceptional wear resistance — particularly valuable for stylists doing long salon days every day.
- HRC hardness: 60–62
- Characteristics: outstanding edge retention, fine-grain structure from high vanadium content
- Used in: top-tier professional cutting scissors
SUS440C
SUS440C is a high-carbon stainless steel defined by Japanese Industrial Standards (JIS). It isn't as premium as VG-10 or ATS-314, but it's been a workhorse of professional scissor manufacturing for decades. It's cost-effective, sharpens easily, and reaches adequate hardness for demanding use.
- HRC hardness: 58–60
- Characteristics: good value, easy to sharpen, adequate corrosion resistance
- Used in: mid-to-upper range professional scissors, apprentice models
Cobalt alloys
Steels using cobalt as a primary alloying element are generally marketed as "cobalt scissors". Adding cobalt meaningfully improves both wear resistance and corrosion resistance. Cobalt alloys aren't a single standard — each manufacturer's recipe is different — but high-cobalt scissors can rival VG-10 and ATS-314 in performance.
Rockwell hardness (HRC) explained
HRC (Rockwell C scale) is the standard way of measuring metal hardness. Higher numbers mean harder steel and better edge retention — but beyond a certain point, steel becomes brittle and chips easily.
The ideal HRC range for professional hair scissors is 58–62. This range balances edge sharpness against durability.
| HRC | Characteristics | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| Below 55 | Soft, easy to sharpen, dulls quickly | Student, home use |
| 56–57 | Slightly soft | Entry-level professional |
| 58–60 | Balanced | Mainstream professional |
| 60–62 | Hard, excellent edge retention | High-end professional |
| 63+ | Very hard, prone to chipping | Specialised (not recommended) |
Corrosion resistance and daily care
"Stainless" doesn't mean "rustproof" — it means "resistant to rust". Even premium steels will develop corrosion and staining without proper care.
Conditions that shorten steel life:
- Leaving hair colour or perm solution on the blades after use
- Storing the scissor while still damp
- Contact with salt or acidic substances
- Extended storage in humid environments
After every use, wipe the blades with a soft cloth and apply oil periodically. See the maintenance page for full care guidance.
Heat treatment matters too
Steel grade is important, but so is heat treatment — the hardening and tempering process that turns raw steel into a working blade. Two scissors made from the same steel can end up with different hardness, different grain structures, and different feels, depending on how each was heat-treated.
Ichiro's scissors are heat-treated in Japan to reach the brand's target balance of hardness and toughness. The quality of heat treatment shows up as "feel" more than as a number on a datasheet — and it's often the difference between a good scissor and a great one.